Archive for the ‘New World’ Category

Introducing…

Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010

I’m pleased to introduce to you the newest writer for Winebard: The Winebeard.  This guy knows how to take wine drinking seriously and fills the name with partial honesty as he recently shaved off his beard (which was probably a good thing).  He introduced wine to me at and early age and taught me how to appreciate it before I was even allowed a sip.  Yes, The Winebeard is otherwise known as Bruce Gurney, my daddy.  You may have noticed that I actually slipped him into my blog earlier, but I felt that he deserved a proper introduction so here I have him introducing a wine hailing from Niagara, an eagerly awaited arrival to British Columbia.  Without further ado, The Winebeard:

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The line-up.

My daughter has let her neo-blogophyte father a.k.a. “The Winebeard” out of the closet. Yep-she cleaned him up, dusted off his taste buds, and seated him in the company of Thomas Bachelder, the principal winemaker of Le Clos Jordanne wineries of Ontario to learn of the wines and the ambitions of this remarkable operation.

So let The Winebeard first tell you what Le Clos Jordanne isn’t.

The North American/Australian New Worldpalate has reinvented wine, and the marketplace has responded with ubiquitous (I have always wanted to use that word in a sentence) offerings to indulge the Colonials’ cravings for plum jam, baked apple pie and infusions with enough oak to leave you with slivers in your gums.  But hey, they’re tasty! Up against the well made traditional “Old World”wines, I feel that is like comparing Manilow to Mozart. Sorry, Barry.

Admittedly, Mozart is a hard sell for many tastes. Mozart is music that makes you think and is so complex that it is a real challenge to hum it in the shower. But for many, the music grabs you in deep and inexplicable ways.

Le Clos Jordanne endeavours to put Mozart in a bottle.  And I think they do a very credible job of it.

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Winemaker, Thomas Bachelder with his 'Old World' Power Point presentation.

It was a treat to have an audience with the passionate and refreshingly unstuffy Bachelder. He spoke of the terroir of Southern Ontario on the Niagara Escarpment as if it were the Cote de Beaune. His harvesting and organic crafting of the pinot noirs and chardonnays are faithful to the time-honoured manner of the Burgundy.  Low yield, hand picked and double sorted, the grapes are barrel fermented in tight grained French oak. (We were tutored on the clear distinction between “barrel fermenting” and “oaking”). These are bottled either as single vineyard (we sampled the impressive Claystone and Grande Clos ) or the assembled “Villages”.


“A sense of place” is the recurring theme. Wines crafted from grapes grown 250 metres apart have discrete personalities These are wines that “come from somewhere”. While New World wines are all about varietals: merlot, shiraz, and the like—and blends thereof, the Old World wines are defined by terroir. The “place” is the thing. What a bottle of “Seven Deadly Zins” is stuffed with is more or less obvious. But can anyone tell me what they put in “Cave de tain Arenes Sauvages”?


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The Winebard and her Daddy

That said, there is nothing gimmicky about this. The truth is, it just works. These wines are delicious. Distinct, restrained, complex, and gorgeous. They play like a symphony of flavours and nuance on the tongue. The pinots, all of 2006 vintage, have floral elements of rose petals and even a touch of citric orange peel. The chardonnays were elegant with pear and mineral notes. Subtle and restrained does not mean wussy. These wines have ‘nads. The treat is in the mid-palate and lingering finish. Indeed, the Claystone pinot gives me flashbacks.

Should you wish to add one or a few of these wines to your repertoire,  you can seek them out at BC Signature Liquor Stores or at a few select private wine retailers.  They vary in price from $25 to $60 and up.  (I’ve misplaced my notes, so I will come back and add more specifics once I can track them down!)


Wine Weekend in the OK

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009

The Okanagan is one of my many favourite weekend retreats and this weekend was no exception. The weather was (mostly) fabulous, good family time, good eats, and a fun wine `tweet-up` with @AllisonMMarkin in Penticton to top it off.

We had good intentions on Good Friday to find kosher beef and make matzo ball soup to go with the Kosher wine that I had procured to give a nod to passover, but after a day of visiting, we lazily grilled up some thick juicy un-blessed steaks, veggies, and potatoes. The wine was a Galil Mountain Pinot Noir that, although we failed in keeping our meal kosher, rocked that steak hard. I had first come in contact with the Galil Mountain wines at the Vancouver Playhouse International Wine festival at the only Isreali wine booth. I found the overall flavour of the wine very unique. I picked up dark cherry, cinnamon, and tobacco notes on the pinot noir.  It wasn`t huge on the fruit and had soft tannins which made it easy to enjoy on its own as well.  Needless to say, the bottle was gone very quickly.

Saturday dinner was at The Gasthouse on the Lake… one of the best German restaurants I have been to. It is a must if you are passing through Peachland.  If you are in the area (or more likely driving through) stop in for a beer on the patio, or make reservations for some fine dining. Their wine list is very extensive, but I ended up ordering a Long Island Ice Tea when no one else was willing to share a bottle and the by the glass didn`t appeal to me.  I broke tradition from ordering Schnitzel to try out a beer braised roast and was not disappointed with the tender, flavourful roast.  I missed the veggies that I saw on everyone else`s plates, though.

Before we headed home on Sunday, we stopped in Penticton to visit with Allison Markin (THE Penticton Wine twitterer) for some lunch and a little wine tour.  I find that wine tours are best when they are little because it isn`t long before the wines start all tasting the same and it all blurs together….  We started off at Township 7.  We were all pretty familiar with the wines, but I wanted to lurk around a little.  We sampled some whites:  Brent liked the Semillon and I liked sniffing the chardonnay (so spicy!).  We tweeted Brad Cooper:  `we are in ur cellar, drinkin ur wine`.  And when we were ready to leave, we found Brent hanging with the horses.

Next stop was Red Rooster where we greeted `Frank` with all of his baggage and controversy and tried their line up.  They are known for their featured local artists, and you can taste wines while wandering their gallery.  I enjoyed each of the wines equally so I eeny meeny`d and ended up with the Reserve Merlot.  The chocolatey notes won me over anyways.  We made a quick stop in at Hillside Estates to snag a Muscat Ottonel which is the perfect sushi wine and the final stop was Elephant Island to sample some of their award winning orchard wines.  I adored the possibilities of mixing martinis with the Apricot and Black Currant dessert wines because very soon they will feature drink mixing recipes from their bartending challenge on their website.  Can you say drink mixing party at my place? La piece de resistance was the Stella Port made with an 8 year old solera system and aged in french Oak Barrels.  We loved the chocolate covered cherry flavour, and I was reminded of a cedar sauna.

We bid farwell to our new friend and headed back home with a little bit to add to our stash of wine.  I really can`t wait to get back to the Okanagan already!  For more Okanagan wine enthusiasm, there is both a facebook group(Okanagan Wine Casual) and some tweets (@okwinecasual).

Pacific Breeze – Garagiste Greatness

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009

This past Saturday and Sunday, Pacific Breeze Winery was showcasing their Spring releases along with some appetizers, music, and sunshine.  My fiance and I started our perfect spring day with a visit to check it out.  I have to admit that I have been hearing good things about this garagiste winery but hadn’t picked up a bottle or stopped by until now.  I am pretty sure now that I have been missing out.

Head Winemaker, Dan Jones, was kind enough to take some time to tell me about the New Westminster winery, the wines, and the barrels.  He outsources his grapes from the Lake Country just north of Napa, has them shipped up here in a temperature controlled truck within 24 hours of being picked, and then stems and crushes them.  It is all as if he were on the vineyard himself with that short timeframe.  He is a true garagiste; the first in BC and one of very few in Canada.  A garagiste is a French term for someone who makes a relatively small production of wine based out of a small building or, you guessed it, a garage.  In this case it was a building in a business park and was full of lovely French oak barrels parked on the racks amongst stainless steel vessels.

When I asked how much of a difference his influence and the changed environment makes on his wine compared to wines made from the same grapes in Napa, he proudly gestured at his many awards.  He has also earned some sparkling reviews from Jurgen Gothe, Deanna Van MulliganDr. Gary Hayes, and Robert Whitley.

French Oak Barrels at Pacific Breeze

French Oak Barrels at Pacific Breeze

I have a fascination with barrels.  They remind me of hibernating bears or butterflies, sleeping until they are mature enough to fill bottles.  These sleeping beauties were segregated into two areas.  The reds were the largest group stacked in the main area, and the chardonnnay ‘princesses’ had their own temperature controlled room (appropriately named: Chardonnay Room).

Dan deciphered the labels on the barrels for me: The first letter indicate the forest from which the oak originated, the second group of letters indicate the level of toastiness, and the third group (if it applies) indicates if the head of the barrel is toasted.  Why are the barrels toasted?  The answer is simple: toasted tastes better.  The toasting inhibits the oak from transfering and overpowering the wine; the heavier the toast the less oaky the wine, and the lighter the toast the more oaky it becomes.  Everyone has their own preference of how much oak a wine needs.  There are the two extremes of those who prefer unoaked and those, like my hobby wine dabbler father, who ask the question: can there be too much oak?  Most people would say yes.  Yes, there can.  (He created a wine he affectionately named ’splinters’.)  I find myself in the middle-of-the-road depending on the wine.

Pacific Breeze does many different tastings and educational evenings.  Sam Hauck does the teaching based on his experience as a wine maker and wine adjudicator.   Dan was telling me how they once tasted the same wine from different barrels made from different forests and were amazed by the distinctness that each forest added to the grapes.

I enjoyed tasting a few of the varietal wines on their own and then picking out the flavours in the blended wines.  I was blown away by the spring release of P2 as well as the unabashedly oaked 2005 Chardonnay (I am my father’s daughter).  Of course, I left with my arms full of those plus the summer porch friendly unoaked Sauvingnon Blanc.  I am very impressed with the quality of these wines and the artistry of Dan Jones and his team.  The simplicity of a garage creates a perfect canvas to create revolutionary, award winning wines and breaks the mold of the preconceptions that a great wine must come from large establishment.  Sometimes the greatest wines are born out of humility, innovation, and hard work.

Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival – Summary

Monday, March 30th, 2009

Wow!  This week has been incredible and now that it is Sunday night I am going to try to sum it all up for you.  There were some great wine highlights, food, and interesting encounters.  This will be a longer post than usual as I am attempting to cram in most of my week.

I attended more consumer tastings in this week, than I have attended period.  I have only been to a few years of Playhouse Wine Fests and thinking back to my first, I have come a long way… especially because I had my gall bladder removed 3 days earlier and I didn’t have enough sense to spit.  A little wiser now, I still didn’t spit very much but I tasted with more selectivity and restraint.  I am slightly ashamed to admit that I wore a white and black coat on Thursday night (mostly due to lack of time to change beforehand) and managed to avoid any spillage.  If you follow me on Twitter, you will occasionally hear about my unsightly, bib-requiring eating habits.

I focused Thursday’s consumer tasting mostly on, you guessed it, whites.  And bubblies.  A few BC whites grabbed my attention such as Cedar Creek’s Ehrenfelser (highly aromatic with nice residual sweetness), Road 13 Jackpot Chardonnay (I finally got to try it, and you should too), and Twisted Tree Viognier Roussane.  My (short) attention was distracted by the ’shiny’ bubblies and I managed to try some knock-yourself-out-blow-your-mind-deep-pocket sparkling wines.  Topping my list is Champagne Deutz 1998 Vintage Cuvee William.  At $175.99 a bottle, I couldn’t pass up sampling this one and going back throughout the week to sneak a few more.  I adored the honey, nutty, and breadiness.  I ran over to try out Piper Heidseck 2000 Vintage Brut when a friend mentioned that it was like butter popcorn.  I love popcorn.  I loved Piper Heidseck.

Some interesting BC sparking wines were Elephant Island’s Pink Elephant which is very much like a Kir Royale,  Township 7’s Seven Stars Sparkling with pear and apple notes, and Blue Mountain’s Brut Gold Label.

Friday’s trade tasting proved more conducive to sampling and chatting with the winemakers, principals, and exhibitors.  I took the opportunity to try out some BC wines that I hadn’t quaffed before and was not disappointed with what I found!  One of my favourite wineries from Friday is Stoneboat Vineyards who was showcasing their pinot-rific wares.  Upon visiting with the owners and growers of this 3 year young winery, I learned that they are not as new to the scene as their label is.  Lanny Martiniuk has been growing for large wine producers since 1983 and his tennure shows in the quality of his wines.  The pinot noir is a full bodied, spicy, fruity, contender; but once you try the Pinotage you will find out why they call it, “a pinot on steroids”.  The pinotage packs a wallop.

After the trade tasting and then pouring in the hospitality suite, I had a bite to eat with some colleagues and dragged my aching body home to get a little rest before Saturday.  Drinking wine is serious business and not for the faint of heart, but insoles and jetted tubs, I determined are very necessary.

Saturday morning, I rushed out to the press conference and then took a very entertaining cab ride to Dockside at Granville Island for the Aussie Barbie.  By entertaining, I mean the driver sang to me, and told me stories that I shant repeat here or anywhere else for that matter.

I found the perfect wine to pair with Kangaroo.  No lie.  Bleasedale Frank Potts Cabernet-Malbec-Shiraz-Merlot Reserve was a perfect match. It made me return a few times for more and for some of their Sparkling Generations Reserve Shiraz.  Oh yeah, and I did I mention that I ate kangaroo?  Seriously.  Lean like elk or bison but not as gamy and reminded me a little of a tender jerky.  I don’t know where you can find the stuff, but if you can find a place that cooks it just right let me know!

I was fascinated by the differences in a Cabernet Sauvignon from the western coast of Australia and the more fruit forward Peter Lehman Cabernet Sauvignon from the south eastern region.  By the way, if you didn’t get a chance to meet the winemaker, he is the friendliest most jovial man who was the only exhibitor to walk around with his wines to refill peoples’ glasses while they ate.  Another regional favourite is the Verdhelho by Tyrell Wines.  A portugese grape that is new to the region and has some lovely lemon and green apple notes and is also used in white port.  White port?!  That was my response.  I hadn’t even heard of it and now I am off to find some and read up on it.  I also took some advice to check out the Two Hands booth which was ‘hands down’ some of the finest Australian wines this year at the festival.

My final exposure to the consumer tasting was on Saturday night.  This was date night so I left my cell phone and any agenda behind and let my fiance do most of the leading with a little gentle backseat driving by yours truly.  He is a very sympathetic wine taster.  By that I mean that he seeks out the tables that look ‘lonely’ and feels that he has accomplished his mission when he leaves after a crowd draws up.  He did learn that sometimes, just sometimes, there was a reason why the tables were quiet, but there were a few really nice surprises.  Surprises like a wine that tastes like coffee (KWV Cafe Culture Pinotage 2008) because of the toasted barrels and the wood maturation.  I liked the uniqueness of it, and he didn’t care for a wine pretending to be something that it isn’t.  Another winery that we both really liked for its uniqueness was Galil Mountain & Yarden, the only Israeli wines featured at the festival.  We both really enjoyed the Galil Mountain Yiron Cabernet-Merlot-Syrah 2005; the characteristics of the fruits and cloves made for a refreshing blend.  We left just before 10pm and barely found the strength to drag ourselves back home, but before we left we stocked up on Terra Breads, Freybe meats, cheeses, Ritter Chocolates, and free water.

I have talked to several people about their impressions of the wine festival.  While most people raved about how much they love to have an opportunity to discover for themselves new wines and new regions, some people were confused by the alphabetical set up this year, and some felt that the prices for the consumer tastings are getting too high.  I do hope that people wishing to learn about wines take opportunities throughout the year to do so. I suggest attending informative events and tastings and also attend the smaller events during the Wine festival to get the most exposure.  Keep an eye out on my events page for local events to attend while you brush up in preparation for next year’s Playhouse Wine Festival.

*News Flash* 2010 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival

Sunday, March 29th, 2009

This morning, the Playhouse Wine Festival Executives held a press conference on next year’s event and yours truly nearly met Anthony Gismondi.  Okay, almost that may not be the most newsworthy news, but I was so close!  Actually, I wanted to share with you what you can expect next year so that we can all prepare.

The planning committee didn’t wish to hold the wine festival so close to the Olympics, and I think that we can all agree that we will need a drink once they’re over.  Traditionally the festival is at the end of March, so be sure to mark off your calendars for April 19th to 25th.

I am very excited about the global focus: Rosé .  Rosé is left on the skins for only a couple of days which gives it its pinkish colour.  The most common varietals are Pinot Noir and Gamay, but there are other varietals out there such as Cabernet Franc and Shiraz.  It will be really interesting to compare different varietals and styles of Rose around the world.  I love a good pairing, and the one thing that gets me wound up in a ball of excitement about this style of wine is it’s flexibility with food pairings.  No doubt there will be some events that showcase and challenge this wine’s repertoire.

The next big news is the TWO theme regions: Argentina and New Zealand.  The consolates shared their excitement over the similarities and differences between them and our region and between each other.  Wine is part of Argentina’s every day life and they produce oodles of it and only export a relatively small percentage of their wines.  The festival gives them an opportune chance to show off what they do so well.  New Zealand is often overshadowed by it’s neighbour, Australia, but it puts out some great Sauvignon Blancs that are fresh and lively.

After watching their cultural performances, I am very sure that we can expect a lot of passion, pride, and sexiness.  As we draw nearer, I will cover more about these regions and the global focus. I must be off to the final night of consumer tasting, after which I will fill you all in on the wines that blew my mind, confused me, and made me spit (no, not really…I am just learning to spit like a good wine drinking lady).  Oh yes, and maybe I WILL run into Gismondi….

Finding North vs South – Wine Blogging Wednesday

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009

wbwlogoWine Blogging Wednesday (WBW from now on, because I roll with acronyms like that) is a new concept to me since my blog is still in its infant stages, but I instantly fell in love with the concept that a multitude of wine bloggers all blog on one ‘topic’ once a month.  It feels very unifying;  We can hold inter-webbed hands across the giant blogosphere and share our tales of the glass while somewhere in the distance, iTunes is playing kumbaya… .

The Mission:

The topic of this month’s WBW is North vs South and is Rémy Charest’s (winecase) brain child and it suggests something almost antithetical to this peace pipe picture of togetherness.  I expect the patriotic wine banter to be deliciously ripe with Canadian vs American comparisons, which is why I decided to go another direction.  I wanted to be original and stand out from the crowd, I wanted to think outside the boxed wine (although that might make an interesting topic sometime), and be as unpedestrian as possible.  BUT, don’t get your hopes up too high here.  This is only my first WBW post and I drew a complete blank when I walked into the specialty wine shop with only North vs South as my compass.

The Acquisition:

I wandered from wall to wall until a clerk  rescued me from my ever changing mind with a suggestion that I thought would be as unique as it would be tasty.  She suggested Grenache and my mouth watered so  I *finally* decided on comparing Spain vs Australian Grenache.  France would have been the obvious choice, but I was curious on how Australia managed with a Grenache and the origin of the varietal is actually most likely from Spain or Italy (Grenacha).

The Varietal:

I was actually surprised to learn that Grenache is one of the most widely planted grape varietals in the world, and up until recently was third in California to Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.  It is a strong varietal in arid and dry conditions and is often used in red blends to offer its strength as a backbone.  Grenache puts the G in GSM along with Shriaz and Mourvedre and on its own, it ages very quickly and is prone to oxidization.

The Food:

Lamb and herbed meatballs, with stirfried vegetables and mushrooms.  Brie and roasted garlic on fig and rye crisps.

The Wines:

North: Vina Alarba – Grenacha Vinas Viejas 2004

  • Nice balance of earthy notes with black cherry, prune and licorice
  • Spicy peppery kick in the finish
  • A lighter more subtle nose than I am familiar with for the varietal
  • We liked this one best with the meatballs and figure it would compliment any steak or burger with mushrooms and onions

South: Yalumba – Bush Wine Grenache 2006

  • More fruit forward and had a smooth sweetness with less spice than North
  • Black cherry with sweet figs
  • We enjoyed this better with the brie and crackers.

Conclusion:

Both wines shared some similarities due to the arid conditions in which they were grown, but I found the Australian Grenache to be more fruit forward as tends to be the norm down under.  I will probably need to drink more.

This concludes my inaugural WBW post and I hope I managed to keep your attention despite the lack of controversy and if not, then I hope you at least ran out to try some Grenache yourself.  I have a hard time finishing these posts with as much excitement as I started them, because I am either drunk to too tired.  I should really start blogging earlier… but rest assured that by next month’s WBW post, I will be a little more fine tuned. 

Final note:  A big thank you to Remy for the great suggestion of North vs South.  Check out Wine Blogging Wednesday for more participants and to find out how you can participate as well.

When Life Gives You Lemons… (Black Cloud – Pinot Noir 2006)

Sunday, March 1st, 2009

The pleasure was all mine when I met Bradley Cooper and his wife the other day to sample his latest creation.  You may know Brad by the famed wines that he has produced for Township 7 Winery; heralded for his ability to transform a BC Syrah into a nectar compared to those from Northern Rhone or for the sparkling wines compared to a Gloria Ferrer.  But this time, I was sampling something very different;  not in quality but in name.

You see, not long ago Brad joined up as a winemaker for a fellow to make wine for a new label.  Due to economic instability and other factors it ended abruptly with a large stock of wine and no winery to put on the label.  After considering keeping a small portion of the wine to cover the final bills, Brad and his wife decided to make lemonade out of this dark and disappointing situation.  They say the experience was like a “Black Cloud” over them, and once they decided to purchase back the remaining lot of the wine that he produced, they begun to see a “silver lining”.

Hence, the name Black Cloud was bestowed upon the wine.

Black Cloud - Pinot Noir 2006

Black Cloud - Pinot Noir 2006

It was a relatively quick turn around from the time the deal fell through to its recent release.  During those four months there were a lot of t’s to cross and i’s to dot and with the generosity of Mike Raffan of Township 7, Brad was able to complete the necessary requirements through them.

You aren’t going to find this wine in a big press release or in many stores… yet.  Brad is using this release as a bit of a social media experiment.  This approach has less overhead than major press releases, and it relies largely on reputation and recommendation.  Brad already has garnered the reputation of a trusted wine maker, and he is spreading the news of this new wine ‘virally’ (meaning through networks of people on various social media outlets)  such as: Twitter, Blogging, Linked in, etc.  After having experienced the wine for myself, I personally believe this wine is going to develop a bit of a cult following.

I opened my bottle with some friends last night to get a variety of opinions on this wine.  At first, we noticed a slight disconnect with the nose to the taste.  The nose was heavy like a sherry and the taste was mildly earthy.  After about half an hour, it opened up into beautiful black cherry, blackberry, and blueberry flavours.  I loved the smokiness of a cigar in the finish.  It maintained its familiar pinot-earthiness and we savoured every sip until the bottle was empty. A lovely example of a new world Pinot Noir.

This wine has influences of the Oregon and New Zealand style of Pinot Noir:

New Zealand Pinot noir is fruit-driven, forward and early maturing in the bottle. It tends to be quite full bodied (for the variety), very approachable and oak maturation tends to be restrained. High quality examples of New Zealand Pinot noir, particularly from the Martinborough region, are distinguished by savoury, earthy flavours with a greater complexity. (Wikipedia)

Where  can you find it?  It is currently on the shelves at Broadway International Wine Shop and Whatcom Wine and Spirits.  I doubt it will be there for long, and if they happen to sell out before you procure your own you can contact Brad through his Blog or through Twitter.

What can we expect in the future from Black Cloud?  This wine will have another vintage of Pinot Noir, and likely a white to compliment it.  Brad has quite a few ideas up his sleeve, and I trust that we will not be disappointed.  He has transformed a black cloud, to one with a silver lining, to one that I expect will garner a golden reputation.