Introducing…
Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010I’m pleased to introduce to you the newest writer for Winebard: The Winebeard. This guy knows how to take wine drinking seriously and fills the name with partial honesty as he recently shaved off his beard (which was probably a good thing). He introduced wine to me at and early age and taught me how to appreciate it before I was even allowed a sip. Yes, The Winebeard is otherwise known as Bruce Gurney, my daddy. You may have noticed that I actually slipped him into my blog earlier, but I felt that he deserved a proper introduction so here I have him introducing a wine hailing from Niagara, an eagerly awaited arrival to British Columbia. Without further ado, The Winebeard:
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The line-up.
My daughter has let her neo-blogophyte father a.k.a. “The Winebeard” out of the closet. Yep-she cleaned him up, dusted off his taste buds, and seated him in the company of Thomas Bachelder, the principal winemaker of Le Clos Jordanne wineries of Ontario to learn of the wines and the ambitions of this remarkable operation.
So let The Winebeard first tell you what Le Clos Jordanne isn’t.
The North American/Australian “New World” palate has reinvented wine, and the marketplace has responded with ubiquitous (I have always wanted to use that word in a sentence) offerings to indulge the Colonials’ cravings for plum jam, baked apple pie and infusions with enough oak to leave you with slivers in your gums. But hey, they’re tasty! Up against the well made traditional “Old World”wines, I feel that is like comparing Manilow to Mozart. Sorry, Barry.
Admittedly, Mozart is a hard sell for many tastes. Mozart is music that makes you think and is so complex that it is a real challenge to hum it in the shower. But for many, the music grabs you in deep and inexplicable ways.
Le Clos Jordanne endeavours to put Mozart in a bottle. And I think they do a very credible job of it.
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Winemaker, Thomas Bachelder with his 'Old World' Power Point presentation.
It was a treat to have an audience with the passionate and refreshingly unstuffy Bachelder. He spoke of the terroir of Southern Ontario on the Niagara Escarpment as if it were the Cote de Beaune. His harvesting and organic crafting of the pinot noirs and chardonnays are faithful to the time-honoured manner of the Burgundy. Low yield, hand picked and double sorted, the grapes are barrel fermented in tight grained French oak. (We were tutored on the clear distinction between “barrel fermenting” and “oaking”). These are bottled either as single vineyard (we sampled the impressive Claystone and Grande Clos ) or the assembled “Villages”.
“A sense of place” is the recurring theme. Wines crafted from grapes grown 250 metres apart have discrete personalities These are wines that “come from somewhere”. While New World wines are all about varietals: merlot, shiraz, and the like—and blends thereof, the Old World wines are defined by terroir. The “place” is the thing. What a bottle of “Seven Deadly Zins” is stuffed with is more or less obvious. But can anyone tell me what they put in “Cave de tain Arenes Sauvages”?
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The Winebard and her Daddy
That said, there is nothing gimmicky about this. The truth is, it just works. These wines are delicious. Distinct, restrained, complex, and gorgeous. They play like a symphony of flavours and nuance on the tongue. The pinots, all of 2006 vintage, have floral elements of rose petals and even a touch of citric orange peel. The chardonnays were elegant with pear and mineral notes. Subtle and restrained does not mean wussy. These wines have ‘nads. The treat is in the mid-palate and lingering finish. Indeed, the Claystone pinot gives me flashbacks.
Should you wish to add one or a few of these wines to your repertoire, you can seek them out at BC Signature Liquor Stores or at a few select private wine retailers. They vary in price from $25 to $60 and up. (I’ve misplaced my notes, so I will come back and add more specifics once I can track them down!)


frantic about a power loss. We had driven by a tree that had fallen on some wires on our way up to the winery that had knocked out most of the power to the Dry Creek valley. Ah, the tension between the land and technology rested for a while on that day. Although I said the staff was a little frantic, I say this in a context that is miles away from the frantic disruption that I am used to experiencing in the city. We all sat outside with a couple of guests and discussed places to eat that night (of which there was no shortage and we could have spent a month here and gained a lot of weight before we had experienced all the food the valley had to offer).
After getting set up in the guest suite, we drove to the town of Healdsburg to eat some ridiculously good food. I mean, Lobster rolls, calamari, and ceviche so delicious and mouth watering that a west coast girl such as myself was in Heaven. Then, hoping that the power was restored by the time we were finished indulging ourselves, we rolled back up to the winery in the dark. And it was dark that greeted us. No matter. Sometimes the greatest moments are a result of circumstances beyond our control– this was one of those moments. By the lights of our cell phones, we searched the winery high and low, through cupboards and drawers, for a flashlight. Which we found in our bedside tables. With that light, we found some tealights and matches and enjoyed the most romantic evening in our suite. I believe I had a 2002 Michel-Schlumberger Pinot Noir with rich notes of jubilee cherries, and hints of cinnamon. I can still almost taste that wine if I close my eyes…
The next morning, after an official tour of the winery, I took off to get my hair done and Brent set about trying to calm his nerves. One of the ladies from the office came to help me with my dress, and brought me a Pinot Blanc while I waited for the pastor and
Our ceremony was beyond what I had dreamed or imagined, Jim live tweeted the vows and even a Goodyear blimp suitably flew by! Our pastor shared sage advice and encouragement with us and we had a communion with, of course, Michel-Schlumberger Pinot Noir. Communion wine should always be this good. After the ceremony and the pictures, we went to eat another embarrassingly good meal in Healdsburg at Zin. We even had our first dance in the town square! Every Tuesday evening in the Summer, the whole town of Healdsburg gathers in the square to listen to jazz and blues while they dance, drink wine, and eat picnics. A friendly toothless man offered to take a little video of our first dance.
The pictures are amazing, but much like my words, they hardly do the day justice. Jim and the winery staff were so gracious and wonderful and as we left, I felt a pang of sadness to leave this slice of heaven that they shared with us. A huge thank you to everyone at Michel-Schlumberger for making our special day even more special than we could have ever imagined, and another thank you to all of our ‘guests’ on Twitter for all of your warm cyber wishes. Both me and Mr. Winebard are swelling with joy (and good food) from all of the warm memories that we shared!
The crowd was jovial and festive and my dear scurvy swab (who, as you know, knows only a little about wine) volunteered himself to lead a tour through the caves. He had followed a few tours already and was confident that he had grasped the important notes to share with the crew. I was so proud of him, that I followed along and poured the tastings as he fielded questions with the sage suggestion to ask Jeff when they return to the crush pad.
